Trouble shooting tips.


A) If the scooter is moving when you turn the key to the “on” position without turning the throttle you will need to replace the throttle or control box.
B) If scooter takes off without turning the key to “on” – you need to replace the control box

2) Scooter not moving and Lights do not work using battery, but lights do work when you plug the charger into the side of the scooter and also plug the charger into the wall-Scooter will not move at all and all lights do not work (lights do work when you plug the charger into wall):
A) No fuse in fuse assembly= add one of the fuses includes with the scooters
B) Bad Fuse= unscrew the cap only on the fuse holder. Remove the fuse and make sure that the fuse is not blown (a good fuse will have a solid wire from one end to the other, a bad fuse=the wire inside is broken)
C) Bad fuse holder = fuse assembly may be cracked or have a bad connection within it .
D) Bad control box
E) Possibly bad battery, although this is rare.
F) Wires behind fuse assembly have come off due to improper replacement of fuses or loose wire connections to the battery. This is always due to the customer rotating the whole fuse assembly (when changing fuses) and twisting the 2 wires that are in the back of the fuse holder. You must open up scooter and reattach these wires to back of fuse assembly or to battery and control box. If this is the problem the lights WILL work when you have the charger plugged in.

3a) Scooter not moving and Lights do not work when using battery, and lights do not work when you plug it into the wall-Scooter will not move at all and all lights do not work (lights also do not work when you plug the charger into wall):
A) Bad ignition switch almost always- if you open the panel under the ignition switch and connect the 2-wire coming from below the ignition switch. to each other, this will bypass the switch. If the scooter then works then you know that you either have a bad ignition switch or bad connection going to the ignition switch. If this is the problem the lights WILL NOT work when you have the charger plugged in.

3b) Scooter not moving/ Lights & horn work only  with battery charger connected.
A) MOST COMMON=Usually bad engine. First check the accelerator bar (throttle) below see 4B To check the engine, plug the engine directly to the battery. If the engine is working then it is not a bad engine. Sometimes you will smell a burning smell if it is a burned out engine or maybe you recall a noise coming from the engine before the scooter stopped running.
B) Accelerator bar=Throttle bar –as you rotate the accelerator bar the lights on the console for speed should light up gradually if the accelerator bar is GOOD. If they do not light up then there is a problem with the accelerator bar or the connection of the accelerator bar to the control box. If the lights do light up gradually as you turn the throttle then it is probably a Battery problem and not a throttle problem. To replace the throttle, use an Allen wrench to remove the screw under the old throttle, then cut the wires on the new and old throttles and splice the wires together.
C) IF THE CHAIN TURNS – but the scooter does not go forward then it is a problem with rear clutch bearing which is a brass color (it attaches directly to the side of the rear sprocket) and it needs to be replaced.
D) Maybe the control box needs to be replaced or there is a bad connection in the wiring going to the motor or to the control box.

4) Scooter going slow:
A) Motor is bad=THIS IS THE MOST COMMON REASON. Maybe the scooter goes fast if you lift the back wheel off the ground, but very slow when you sit on it. Sometimes you will smell the engine burning or you will hear it making a clicking noise.
B) Battery needs to be recharged
C) It may be too cold to operate the scooter. The scooter runs very slow at 40 degrees Fahrenheit or colder. The battery does not output much current at low temperatures. It is too cold to operate.
D) Maybe one of the batteries needs to be replaced – check output of battery with an electrical meter=VERY DOUBTFUL unless battery is 9 months old. In our first 4 months we have not had any bad batteries.
E) Scooter is braking so the brakes need to be adjusted – If you are simply pushing the scooter when the ignition switch is turned off and the scooter very hard to push= then you know that the scooter is always braking. To fix it - On the back wheel, loosen the nut, which is about 1 inch from the end of the brake wire. Then flex the brake handle. Then adjust the brake and tighten the nut back on.
F) The rear chain sprocket and the sprocket on the end of the motor are not properly lined up. You have to loosen the two outer nuts on the back wheel axle and adjust the back tire so that the chain lines up straight
G) The chain is too loose or the chain is too tight. Loosen up the nuts on the back axle and move the back wheel forwards to tighten the chain or backwards to loosen the chain.
H) Make sure the tires have sufficient air but this usually is not the problem.
I) Maybe bearings are worn out. Sometimes you can disconnect the chain and spin the back wheel and still hear the problem bearing.

5) Brakes not braking:
A) On the back wheel, loosen the nut, which is about 1 inch from the end of the brake wire back by the back wheel. Then flex the brake handle on the left handle bar to loosen the brake wire. Tighten the nut back nut after adjusting the brake. (To make the scooter brake more easily, use a pair of pliers to pull the wire out further from the nut and then tighten the nut to hold the wire in place).
B) Brake not working – brake drum threads are stripped where drum screws onto the wheel.

6) Grinding Noise in rear
A) MOST COMMON= motor is making noise – replace motor. If you take off the chain and run the scooter, does it still make a noise=if so, then it is definitely the motor
B) Bearings damaged in rear wheel – replace bearings
C) The chain is too loose or the chain is too tight. Loosen up the nuts on the back axle and move to back wheel to tighten or loosen the chain
D) The rear chain sprocket and the sprocket on the end of the motor are not properly lined up. You have to loosen the two outer nuts on the back wheel axle and adjust the back tire so that the chain lines up straight.

7) Scooter seems fine until sat on , then will not go or pops fuse .
a) most common fix- front tire-fork is backwards, loosen clamp on post and spin tire-fork around.

8)Tire problems –
A) Tire will not inflate – broken inner tube. You will either have to replace the inner tube, which is available at at our website or at a local store like, Wal-Mart, K-Mart or Pep Boys.
B) Tire is wobbly or when inflating the tire the tire comes off the rim – you probably have a Happy Tire brand of tire and you will have to replace it because the bead of the tire is not seating against the rim as you inflate it.

9) Scooter will not charge- after charging for 8 hours, the scooter does not show a full charge (the lights are not all lit up).
A) Charger may be bad. Replace charger. THIS IS MOST COMMON.
B) Charger connection on scooter is bad- usually a wire on the back of this charger connection is not attached to the assembly
C) Maybe the connection problem from the charger wire to the control box
D) Maybe the control box is bad.
E) Rarely, one of the 2 cells of batteries are bad

10) The seat post or front post will not tighten
A) The clamp is not all the way at the bottom of the post. Move it to the bottom of the post and retighten.
B) The clamp L-shaped screw can be tightened and tightened but it does not appear to be getting tighter. You have to hold the bolt head with a pair of pliers while you twist the other end of the screw with your hand.

12) Scooter will not go up hills
A) Too much weight on scooter. It is not intended to carry weight much higher than its load capacity up a slope.

13) All lights work, but the power and speed gauges (where provided) do not work- check to see if the wires are all plugged into the circuit board which is in the headlight structure.

14) Scooter will not shut off even after you remove the keys – Need to replace control box

17) Scooter takes off when you turn on the key (without turning the control handle) – Need to replace control handle or control box in some models (no springs on front forks and no shock absorber under the seat).

18) Luggage box lock falling off –replace the luggage box lock with a similar one that is held in place by a clip. The ones with screws are falling off.

19) Front headlight is not working – Replace bulb to the front headlight

A) To get inside the scooter body under the seat– you do not need to remove the 4 locknuts on the bottom of the scooter. Just open the battery cover and if neccessary remove the batteries to access the control box and the motor.

In the case of 48 volt electric assisted bicycles/Mopeds, below is a brief electrical connection trouble shooting process.

The easiest way to check components on a electric scooter is by use of a Voltmeter. If you already have go to the directions below. If you do not have a Voltmeter you can purchase this tool at any hardware store at a minimal price. Just be sure it can measure DC Voltage and it should have a Digital Readout. For most of these readings the voltmeter will be set to 50vdc or higher.

*The main cause for not functioning is the power plug that plugs into bottom of battery box is unplugged. First confirm that this plug is firmly connected.

You can also check the controller connections located under the seat storage compartment. Particularly the leads from the hub motor to the controller.

How To Check Brake Safety Switch:

First remove front fairing and check the throttle connector and brake connectors for loose connection. Tug on each wire to make sure its locked into the connector. Next follow the brake safety switch wire to the connector on the scooter harness, Unplug connector (both safety switches) and re-try scooter. If you have motor function the safety switch is faulty.

Measure total battery voltage. remove battery cover and locate the Black wire on the last battery that is connected to power plug and place lack probe here. Locate the Red wire on first battery that goes to power plug and place Red probe here. What is yours measuring? should be at least 50vdc.

You can have a local battery retailer like "Batteries Plus" perform a load test on your batteries to confirm their condition.

Testing the Motor Sensors:

First, let's sort out the motor's wiring. There is eight wires total, or leads, running from the motor to the controller. Three larger wires power the motor and are larger (16 AWG): Green, Blue, and Yellow. Two wires power the sensors and are smaller: Red and Black. And three wires connect the sensors to the controller: Green, Blue, and Yellow. All 5 small wires are connected to one white quick disconnect. For this project, we are concerned only with the smaller wires of Green, Yellow and Blue.

Now, there are two methods I've used to determine a bad connection or which of the three sensors have failed. By the way, both require the motor to be fully assembled.

The first is to simply run the motor while one sensor lead is disconnected, “refer to section-A below on how to do this”, then again for the second lead, and a third time for the last lead. If one sensor is dead (and that's your only problem), you'll see that disconnecting one or the other of the good sensors prevents the motor from turning altogether, while disconnecting the bad one has no effect at all--it still sputters.

If that didn't work, try this second method. It is more complex, but useful to identify a bad controller rather than the motor, and more nuanced issues or problems stemming from multiple failures.

Remove the 3 small wires from the 5 wire connector leaving the red and black wire attached.

While the motor is connected to the controller, powered, and at rest--or, alternatively, powered with +5 volts from a workbench power supply--set up a multimeter to monitor the sensor's output on one of the 3 wires. Connect the Black Voltmeter Lead to the small black wire by inserting the probe in where the wire goes into the connector. Attach the Red Voltmeter to one of the 3 wires to be tested. IMPORTANT: do NOT let any of the small wires touch each other or will blow the sensor. Turn the motor by hand very slowly while watch the voltmeter. It should pulse to 5vdc when active and 0vdc when not. Repeat this step for other 2 wires. If all three wires Green, Blue and Yellow pulses 5vdc then the motor is good and controller is bad.

Section-A: Do not have scooter powered up. Locate the white quick 5 wire connector leading from the controller to the motor and unplug connector. With a small ice pick or large needle inserted to unlock the lock tab one of the good pins. And pull the wire out of the controller and reconnect the connector. Tape off the gold pin to protect it. Return to above instructions above.

Throttle Voltage Test:

Follow throttle wires until you find it’s white connector. You will be testing the “Red”, “Green”, and “Black” wires. Set your meter to test DC volts. Block rear wheel off the ground so scooter won’t take off. Turn the scooter on. Place the red meter test lead on the “Red” wire and the meter black lead on the “Black” wire. The meter should measure +5 volts. Now place the meter red lead on the “Green” wire. With out turning the throttle you should read around +.8 volts. Now turn the throttle wide open. You should now read around +4 volts. If everything else powers up on the scooter and you do not have +5 volts between the “Red” and “Black” wire the controller is bad. If you did not get the +.8 to +4 volts then the throttle is bad.